Rome and the Amalfi Coast

First, I'd like to thank all the people who responded for Cape May, it was a wonderful time and all the suggestions were spot on (George's, Mad Batter, etc!).

As part of the CHS art program, my junior is going to spend 10 days in Lucerne, Venice, Florence, Pisa, and finally a day and half in Rome.  The plan is to meet up with her in Rome and spend 5 to 7 days in Rome before going down to the Amafli coast for some R&R (already booked an AirBnB in Atrani). 

If we were to spend 7 days in Rome, is that too long?  Would five be better?  Besides staying in the city center, is there a suburb with good transportation into Rome (say something like Brooklyn Heights to Mid Town).  There  is a ton to see in Rome, is there anything you would skip?

We definitely want to visit Mt. Vesuvius / Herculaneum and Pompeii on the way to Atrani.  However, if we were to only stay in Rome 5 days, is there a mid-point between Rome and Atrani that you would recommend staying.  Naples seems to get short thrift in all the guide books.

For transportation from Rome to Amalfi coast, it seems like there are several train options that would work (local and a high speed).  The thought of renting a car / driver for stops in Mt. Vesuvius / Pompeii is also appealing. Thoughts?

Thanks,

RCH


7 Days is PERFECT for Rome!!!   We went in October and used it as a central point - there is so much to see its easy to stay busy but we also ventured into Tuscany, Capri and Sorrento from there.


I think 5 days in Rome would be enough. We took trains everywhere. We took  the train to Naples and then took a train to Pompeii. We only spent 3 hours in Naples so I can't really judge it. The sanitation workers were on strike at the time, so it wasn't the most beautiful spot to be in. Pompeii was amazing. We stayed in Sorrento and then took a ferry and stayed in Anacapri for a couple of nights. There's nothing off the top of my head I would skip in Rome, but I would definitely recommend dinner at Birreria Peroni and gelato at the shop in the square across from the Pantheon.


lol on Naples sanitation workers. We’ve been three times, years apart, and every time, this has been the case. Naples is a terrible city. Dirty, crime-ridden, seedy x 100. Don’t stay there. Pass through on your way somewhere else.


Stay in Rome, not in a suburb. It’ll be a much better experience. I could stay in Rome for a month (heck, I could sit in the Forum alone for a month!) but if you want to see other things, 5 days should be fine.


Personally, I wouldn’t drive in Rome or Italy. The trains are easy and cheap.


3 of my favorite restaurants in Rome:

1. da fortunato al pantheon - right by the Pantheon, has been there for many years, every meal that I've eaten there for over thirty years has been delicious,

2. Piperno - can be a little tourist heavy - delicious, wonderful fresh fish; in the Jewish ghetto,

3. Giggetto - across from the synagouge - to die for fried artichokes "carcofi ala guida"

For a real treat, visual and gastronomic it was hard to beat La Terrazza dell'Eden the restaurant on the roof of the Hotel Eden.


You might like Ostia Antica, a large archeological site about an hour's train ride from Rome.  

http://www.ostia-antica.org


Second for Ostia Antica. If you want a private tour guide, contact Ann Hogan. Our time with her at the Vatican was worth every penny.  We have recommended her to lots of friends and she never disappoints.   Her husband is a chef in Rome, so she can recommend lots of great restaurants. hogan76@yahoo.com


I totally disagree about Naples-we spent 3 days there and absolutely loved it.  we did not find any mountains of garbage anywhere.  you can eat & drink great food for next to nothing (eur).  the archaeological museum is a must see before pompeii.  we didn't even scratch the surface with 3 days.  the historic center is gritty and its just a great area to wander and take it all in.  we did a 1/2 day visit to pompeii during the three days.  btw-its true about the pizza-I had the best pizza of my life there.

Rome is my hands down favorite city in the world.  definitely stay in the historic district.   I have been 3 times since 2010  and need to get back soon.  but I would spend at least 2 in naples. 


I'm with OOTs, Rome is my favorite city and 7 days would not be too much. But it depends what you are trying to accomplish--we love to chill and wander (and eat!), not necessarily trying to hit famous sites. Here is one place to check out for lodging, which we have used and recommended. They recently "upgraded" so prices have gone up but it's still reasonable for central city and considering the amount of space/beds for a family group: www.trianonborgopio.com

It is a five minute (or less) walk over to St Peter's and Castel sant'angelo, 10 minutes walk to Trastevere. Colisseum/Forum prob about 45 minute walk but there is good public transit. We've used buses a lot there, less crowded than subway. 


If you'd like to have dinner or cocktails with a local couple or family, you can do that through eatwith.com.

We really enjoyed that.


If you have the time, you might want to consider touring the Etruscan ruins near Rome.  They are a UNESCO World Heritage site: 

We spent a couple night here:  http://www.agriturismoborgodellaschetto.it and really loved the cultural experience.  Basically, it's a farm that also rents rooms.  The innkeepers didn't speak English and it is not posh (we wished their air conditioning worked better), but they were incredibly friendly, gracious hosts who put together an authentic, multi-course Italian dinner for us, including multiple courses of antipasti, delicious pasta, etc.  Our stay there was my husband's favorite part of our Rome trip.  


Looks like the link to the video won't work, but if you go to YouTube and type in UNESCO and Cerveteri, a few videos will come up that you can look at to see what I'm talking about.



rch2330 said:

First, I'd like to thank all the people who responded for Cape May, it was a wonderful time and all the suggestions were spot on (George's, Mad Batter, etc!).

As part of the CHS art program, my junior is going to spend 10 days in Lucerne, Venice, Florence, Pisa, and finally a day and half in Rome.  The plan is to meet up with her in Rome and spend 5 to 7 days in Rome before going down to the Amafli coast for some R&R (already booked an AirBnB in Atrani). 


If we were to spend 7 days in Rome, is that too long?  Would five be better?  Besides staying in the city center, is there a suburb with good transportation into Rome (say something like Brooklyn Heights to Mid Town).  There  is a ton to see in Rome, is there anything you would skip?


We definitely want to visit Mt. Vesuvius / Herculaneum and Pompeii on the way to Atrani.  However, if we were to only stay in Rome 5 days, is there a mid-point between Rome and Atrani that you would recommend staying.  Naples seems to get short thrift in all the guide books.

For transportation from Rome to Amalfi coast, it seems like there are several train options that would work (local and a high speed).  The thought of renting a car / driver for stops in Mt. Vesuvius / Pompeii is also appealing. Thoughts?

Thanks,

RCH

I would absolutely rent a car. there's too much to see along the way. The drive isn't bad either. As for staying somewhere in Rome that isn't "city center", Trastevere is a great area just across the river. Also look into AirBnB's as you can find a much bigger/cooler place for much less than a hotel.


We booked a phenomenal apartment in Rome through airbnb for a ridiculously low price.


piggy backing on here. How is Lake Como? Trying to pick somewhere I haven’t been for an Airbnb kind of thing for about 5 days. It’ll be with my parents and an 11 and 8 year old. If not Lake como, other suggestions?


Its a pretty area but not sure for 5 days.    What about Nice and the Italian Riviera?   


Lake Como is very nice. I really enjoyed the Cinque Terre region. We stayed in Monterosso and took ferries to the other towns. There's a nice small beach in Monterosso and you can hike along the cliffs from town to town as well. 


I’ve already done that so I was hoping for somewhere else and the cruise we’re going to do stops in Nice for a day too.


We’re doing 5 days in Barcelona, a cruise with stops in Rome, Naples, Pisa (livorna), Mallorca, Nice/Cannes and Monte Carlo


Open to suggestions. I don’t mind a repeat city if it has a lot for the kids. 


boomie said:

Its a pretty area but not sure for 5 days.    What about Nice and the Italian Riviera?   



Oh yes Cinque Terre!   Perfect choice.   We stayed in Riomaggiore at the very top.


I loved Cinque Terre too. That might be lovely for a few days. Ones a beach kid, one NOT


they might love Paris. But also wanted somewhere Mom & Dad haven’t been. They’ve seen Paris, Rome, Venice, Nice, Dublin.


Lago D Como:

Varenna-absolutely gorgeous.  we were there last may for 3 nights.  very convenient for arrival by train or car ( we came via train) 

then went to cinque terre-gorgeous as well but mobbed.  stayed in manarola  way up on the hill view to die for.  trained to vernazza-( had to leave immediately- a mob scene.  may be too hilly for your parents.

lake como is not without hills but your hotel need not be.


my parents are okay with hills and walking. They won't be running but slow walking is fine. Thank you.



Zeus2112 said:

I would absolutely rent a car. there's too much to see along the way. The drive isn't bad either. As for staying somewhere in Rome that isn't "city center", Trastevere is a great area just across the river. Also look into AirBnB's as you can find a much bigger/cooler place for much less than a hotel.

We are looking at staying in three area's: around Vatican City (more to the North of it to be close to the metro), central Rome in the Campo de Fiori / Pantheon district, and Trastevere area.  It seems once you cross the river, you get more for your money.  One of the item's on the wish list is a balcony / terrace with a view, which is hard to come by in the Pantheon (small balcony yes/terrace no) district for a reasonable amount per night.  There are some very nice places on AirBnB but it's a slog to get through all the listings.

Regards,

RCH


We loved Hotel47 and had a great balcony. Well located


So, if you're thinking about renting a car, I say go for it. Driving in Italy is not bad at all. On the highways, it's quite refreshing to notice that everyone drives in the right hand lane except to pass.  So not like New Jersey!  I found it a little tricky once you get to an actual city and want to park, but travel between cities by car was great for us. 

I strongly recommend that you make sure you have a working GPS, whether on your phone or not.  Italy has lots of traffic circles, and my memory (this is mostly in Tuscany) is of approaching a traffic circle, and literally each exit would have a dozen arrow-like signs pointing to various towns - most of them many letters long, which were mostly vowels. It was almost impossible to read them all and find which one you were looking for. When last there, in 2008, I bought a Garmin Nuvi just for this purpose, and it was one of my best trip decisions ever. The Garmin would simply say,"enter round about an take third right hand exit" and I was relieved of trying to read all the signage.  Could be your phone GPS options will work, but you might want to think about data plans in this light.

p.s. It was nice fo you to start your thread thanking folks for their Cape May recommendations, especially because I either gave the George's recommendation or maybe just seconded it! Enjoy Italy!!


Con-Amsterdam? Beautiful, friendly, can take train to towns w tulips windmills. 


hmmm. Never thought about that. I’ve been but no one else. Might be a great idea. Will check flights. Thank you. 



rch2330 said:



Zeus2112 said:

I would absolutely rent a car. there's too much to see along the way. The drive isn't bad either. As for staying somewhere in Rome that isn't "city center", Trastevere is a great area just across the river. Also look into AirBnB's as you can find a much bigger/cooler place for much less than a hotel.

We are looking at staying in three area's: around Vatican City (more to the North of it to be close to the metro), central Rome in the Campo de Fiori / Pantheon district, and Trastevere area.  It seems once you cross the river, you get more for your money.  One of the item's on the wish list is a balcony / terrace with a view, which is hard to come by in the Pantheon (small balcony yes/terrace no) district for a reasonable amount per night.  There are some very nice places on AirBnB but it's a slog to get through all the listings.

Regards,


RCH

Of those areas, Trastevere is probably the most "neighborhood" VS "central". ABNB has the map you can zoom in on the area and also select via price, etc. should be pretty easy to find what you're looking for on there, and definitely at  much lower price than any hotel. Good luck!


We had a place like that in Vatican City.  Let me know if you want the link.


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